Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Fuel Filter check and/or change, every 12,000km/7500mi


Fuel filter swap or 'check' requires disassembly of the fuel tank. It is also suggested you replace the rubber hoses involved in the fuel system every 24 months. I personally feel a swap every 24000km/15000mi or at 2yrs along with the rubber hoses is reasonable.

Parts required:

-Fuel hose. 8mm inner diameter or 5/16" SAE. Able to wistand +43psi or 3.0 kg/cm2 (300 kPa). Most USA available fuel injection hose is rated to 50psi and 7.9mm inner diameter. If replacing all fuel hose internal to tank and external to tank you will need approx 2m/6ft.

-Fuel filter. MV Part number 800088585. You can also use a Ducati 748/916/996/998 filter. I personally use BMW PN: (1614) 2 325 859 which can be more readily available and is cheaper.

-Hose clamps. Clic-R or All Stainless worm drive hose clamps (6)

At this point if you have not already swapped the quick connect fuel fittings from the stock plastic fittings for metal you may wish to do so. The tank will be apart already and this makes the process much simpler. See this FAQ entry if interested:

Process for Replacement:

-Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out of the tank
-Remove tank from bike; remove seat, side panels then rear attachment pin under seat hinge
-Unclip fuel line fittings by pressing metal tabs
-Unclip fuel pump AMP connector
-Drain Tank utilizing drain plug on lower surface, hex key 8(?)mm
-Place tank upside down on soft work surface
-Remove three tube nuts securing metal flange assembly to tank
-Insert three M6 bolts into fuel pump flange holes to pull metal flange free from tank. Tighten bolts in balanced sequence to keep flange fairly level as it is removed
-Pull fuel pump assembly free of tank taking care with O-ring
-Remove the Clic-R fasteners from hoses with Clic-R pliers

-Remove Clic-R fasteners from fuel filter assembly
-Size and cut new replacement hose to fit old pieces

-Press tabs of fuel pump rubber sheath and pull fuel pump assembly free from metal flange
-Pull fuel pump screen filter free from pump assembly
-Using compressed air or similar clean all residue from screen filter. Replace if damaged
-Replace screen filter so that barbed hose fitting is in line with pump barb connection as follows

-Replace quick connect fuel fittings on outside of metal flange if so desired
-Snap fuel filter assembly back into metal flange
-Fit new fuel filter onto hose with clamps. Ensure that arrow is pointing towards metal flange
-Arc and fit new hose from filter barb to fuel pump barb and clamp

-Remove hoses from bottom of fillter cap which will attach to fuel pump flange from inside tank
-Cut new hose to size and fit it into same, approx 50cm/18" each
-Hose A will attach to flange on silver barb next to fuel pump
-Hose B will attach to flange on silver barb between filter and fuel height sensor

-Check large green O-ring around the filter flange. If any damage, replace
-Once perfect O-ring is fitted lubricate it with silicone grease liberally
-Lower metal flange assembly into tank so that "FRONT" mark on flange is facing the front
-Fit hoses as above (Hose A and Hose B) and clamp them taking care not to damage large green O-ring surrounding the metal flange assembly
-Press metal flange assembly evenly so as not to pinch/damage the O-ring. Screw tube nuts back onto threaded tank fittings and tighten metal flange to the tank
-Use teflon plumbing tape on the drain plug and resecure it to tank

If replacing all rubber hoses you'll now need to cut the new hose to size from fuel rail to quick connect fitting. Fit new hose to fuel rail and fit new quick connects to new hose

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Cam Lobe marks


We have had communication about cam lobe marking seen on some bikes ranging from MY2000 F4 750 to MY2006 Brutale 910R. So far in every owner-group communicated case, the issue has been a visual one rather than something that degrades over time.

We have documentation of this condition over 33000mi/53000km with no degradation over time.

Via MV Yahoogroups and special thanks to AG, GB and PS:

If during service You find little "scratches" on top of cam lobe, don't worry. It is not a nice sight, but it won't give trouble. We have been monitoring this kind of problem for a long time and on many engines, and this is the conclusion we reached. The problem is due to a not perfect cleaning of camshaft before final treatment of nitrogen coating; some small patches of thin nitrogen coated layer detach from lobe, creating a kind of raw surface. This kind of wear is easily recognizable because it does not affect max lift ofvalve. If it happens to find this kind of problem on a customer bike that we service in R&D we don't change parts.

See photos: in this case it is quite small, but it can be bigger. The only true and dangerous problem is if the cam lobe is deeply worn, meaning it looses its shape and becomes flattened, loosing valve lift. In this case generally we change camshaft and buckets under warranty. This kind of problem is mainly due to a defective bucket. Hope it helps.

-courtesy AG


For reference here is a cam lobe mark at 34,000km/23,000mi:


Here is that same lobe at 33,000mi/53000km:


Friday, September 22, 2006

Oil filter analysis and potential alternative

Please carefully consider the risks when deciding to use non OEM parts.

There was a time when oil filters were hard to come by, especially in the UK. The UK importer at that time suggested the use of the Champion F306. This is the same filter as used by various Kawasakis & Yamahas including ZXR400/750, ZZR600,V-Max, R6, R7 & R1.

Here is a photo comparing the MV filter part# 8000A0810 with the Champion F306

-courtesy P, click to enlarge

The main differences are that the Champion F306 is slightly longer & hence has more surface area (a good thing) and that the Champion has an anti-drain backvalve (also a good thing on horizontally mounted filters - it's the orange ring).

Testing the pressure release valve with some scales shows the Champion F306 releases at 2.6Kgs pressure, the MV at 2.9Kgs. Given the fact that different manufacturers valves vary by substantially more than 300g even for the same model bikes, I think the difference can be safely ignored.

-Submitted by P

Monday, July 31, 2006

Brutale Handlebar Switch (Stock Bars for Ducati Monster S4R Bars)

Submitted by Chris Current (Quixotic_1)

Contained here are instructions on the process to switch the stock Brutale handlebars for the Ducati Monster S4R bars specially made by Magura (other bars may be used, but the Magura has a nice, textured surface that allows for an easier switch; plus, several people have done this and it has worked for them very well). The reason for this (obvious to some Brutale owners) is that the stock bars of the Brutale may not be as aggressive or provide as much room in the saddle as some may wish for. This is the reason that I did it.


First, the S4R handlebar must be found. I suggest driving around town until you see a S4R parked in a lot or next to someone's home, then pull some tools out of your tool chest and...OK, I would never suggest that. The fact is, though, these bars are not easily found except through a Ducati dealer. They cost around US$210 for just the bars. Another way to find them is to go through a forum. I found mine on the Ducati Monster board. I simply placed an ad there asking if anyone is willing to give their bars up. I was responded to within 24 hours by a good guy from Illinois. He let his go for less than half the new price (including shipping) and even sent me the top triple with them. They arrived in perfect shape. So, get your bars anyway that you can (don't steal them, please) and make sure that they are straight and in solid shape.

Depending on your preference, you might also get a new left (clutch-side) hand grip. I did because my dealer had to replace the throttle grip on my bike due to 'crate damage' and they must be ordered in pairs; so, they had an extra for me. I will include removing the grip form the stock bars in the explanation below for those that wish to use the original from the stock bars.

Next, there are some considerations. While most of the Brutale stock handlebar controls will fit perfectly on the new S4R Magura bars, the bar end weights will not due to the fact that the interior diameter on the Magura bars is a non-standard size. So, at the very least, either purchase (or keep, if you have them) the entire stock bar end weight setup or just the bushings that fit inside the bars and billet bar ends or sliders/crash pads. There are few (if any - I could not locate them anywhere) aftermarket bar end weights that will fit these bars without the stock S4R bushings. If you are going the slider/crash pad route, a company called Cycle Cat ( makes some quality pieces; there are others as well, but it seems that Ducatisti (?) prefer these. What you will have to do, though, is cut off the bit that slides into the bar and use the stock S4R bushings. This may seem to compromise the integrity of the slider, but at least one person has experienced a crash with this modification and it performed perfectly. I decided to go for a set of billet bar ends from Oberon ( out of the UK (the bolts that they sent did not fit the Ducati bushings so I had to purchase some 6x40MM screws).

OK, you have your supplies, now you will need tools. Here is a list of what I used:

  • Brutale Service Manual, specifically Section C, pages 4-7; it can be found in many places, you probably already have one!
  • Cordless drill.
  • 5/32" drill bit, but I would suggest 3/16" as that is almost the exact size of the 'retaining pins'; I did not measure their exact metric diameter, so you may wish to do this and get a drill bit that matches. However, I liked using a smaller bit and just 'twisting it around' until I had a hole that was very close to the right size. That allowed for a tighter, thus stronger, fit for the controls.
  • Several Allen wrenches in various metric sizes; most used were 2.5, 5 and 6mm.
  • Phillips-head screwdriver.
  • An air compressor or some hair spray for the clutch-side grip.
  • Some way to measure angles and distances; I used a measuring ribbon - often used to measure for clothes - and a protractor and level. Some of these measurements will not be useful except as a guide for placing the controls on the new bars, but it never hurts to have too much information.
  • Some padded bags for using on the instrument panel.
  • A digital or Polaroid camera to take 'before' photos.
  • A Sharpie for marking places for drilling (or Liquid Paper).
  • And, Locktite, if you will use it. I did not use any and it has caused me no problems.
  • Dremel for cutting retaining pins out of Magura bars (only if necessary; some may come without these pins)


Now comes the easy bit, taking the stock bars off.

  • First, take photos of the stock setup. This will give you something to look at for such things as the distances between grips and controls, angles of the levers, where the retaining 'rubber band' bits go, etc.
  • I would suggest taking some measurements as well; measure the angle of the levers, measure the distances of controls; basically, measure the things that you took photos of so that you can translate vision to math and back again.
  • Anything else that you can do to keep in mind how things are setup on your stock bars is helpful. You do not want to miss these steps because you will be manually positioning everything on the Magura bars...and you have to drill holes in those, so you need to be sure of your placement.

OK, now to the Service Manual.

  • The Manual states that the front headlight assembly and the dash instruments must be removed in order to remove the bars. It is about half right.
  • This is an unnecessary step, but I did it because I am anal about scratches and dings and such; you can choose to remove the front fender/mudguard and the aluminum radiator 'guards' as I did. This will protect these parts from being damaged by hanging levers and such. (2.5 and 5mm hex, if I remember correctly)
  • You will need to remove the headlight; just follow the manual. It is easy to do: remove the two bolts on either side of the light while holding on to the light itself (6mm hex), unhook the electrical connection, set the light on a soft, padded surface.
  • Next, unscrew the instrument panel. I did not remove it entirely simply because I knew that I did not need to. I wrapped it in some padding and placed a plastic bag around it. Then I used a large rubber band to hold it in place where the headlight used to be. It was safe and out of the way.

Now to the Actual Work, Removing the Stock Bars

  • The bars; loosen the bolts and remove the bar ends on both ends and set them aside. (5mm hex)
  • Remove the 'bands' holding the cables onto the bars. (fingers)
  • Loosen the 4 bolts on the handlebar u-bolt (clamp) on the top triple so that the bars slide freely just a bit. (6mm hex)
  • Loosen the bolts on the throttle and slide it off; it may help to slide the bars a little to the clutch-side. (5mm hex)
  • Unscrew and remove the ignition control set. (Phillips-head screwdriver; and remember which screws go where)
  • Unscrew and remove the lighting/horn/turnsignal control set. (Phillips-head screwdriver; again, remember which screws go into which holes)
  • Remove the bolt holding the mirrors and the clutch and front brake levers and master cylinders; be careful here so as not to break the mirrors. The units are hinged on one side so only one bolt must be removed and then you can 'open' them and take them off of the bars. As another safety precaution, wrapping the mirrors with something padded is helpful because they will hang down on the sides of the bike. (5mm hex)
  • Now that the controls are off of the bars, completely remove the bar u-bolt (clamp) that holds the bars on the steering head by removing the 4 bolts holding the u-bolt (clamp) on. (6mm hex, again) There is a retaining pin that locates the bars at the correct angle, so watch for that.
  • Once the bars are off the bike, you can remove the clutch-side handgrip. Use compressed air to blow into the space between the grip and the bars and the grip should slide off. (Compressed air). I have also been told, but never used, that you can blow some hairspray (or WD-40) into this space as well and it will help. There are many arguments about this, though...

The Real Work, Installing the S4R Magura Bars

Here is the way that I installed the bars. You may wish to do it slightly differently. It comes down to what is easiest for you and what you feel comfortable with.

  • Make sure that the new handlebar is clean. Depending on the condition that you received the bars in, you may need to remove the retaining pins that came with the bars (I did). I tried various methods of pulling and twisting and solvents, but was never able to get them out. So, I simply used a Dremel tool and hacked them off carefully (to avoid damaging the bars) and then smoothed them out with some light sanding. (Dremel with metal cutting disc and fine grain sanding disc) When all of the MV components are on the bars, the locations of the previous pins will be covered.
  • Place the bars in the top triple 'cradle' and place the u-bolt (clamp) on it; screw in the 4 bolts, but do not tighten\torque them on yet; just put them in far enough to lightly hold the bars in place. (6mm hex)
  • Now center the bars. This can be done by using a measuring method (for instance, use the measuring ribbon to measure the distance from the end of the bar to the u-bolt or use the bend in the bars on either side of the u-bolt and use a finger to measure the distance between the bends -they feel like bumps in the bars - and the u-bolt; just use whatever works for you) to find that they are centered. On the Magura bars, there is a Ducati Corse logo that can also be used for this purpose; however, I am not completely positive that it is in the dead center of the bar.
  • Next, twist the bars so that they are as 'high' as possible; the bars should be where the bends are at their highest point possible. This is the best plan for proper clearance of the hydraulic lines. Later, you can adjust this if you wish, but I found this to work well. Of course, this depends on how you want the bars positioned because the next steps will be about positioning the controls so be sure that the bars are in the position that they will stay in.
  • Once the bars are in place and centered, tighten the bolts on the u-bolt (clamp) so that the bars will not move but do not completely torque them in. (6mm hex)
  • Now, you should put on the clutch-side grip. Use your photos to determine what the end result will look like (positioning), unless you are not concerned with this. I matched mine to the stock position. Place the S4R bar end that you purchased on to make sure that the grip is far enough up the bar and positioned correctly; again, use your photos to determine proper position. You can use the compressed air or the hair spray (I don't like using this because when it gets wet it can become loose) or just do this when it is colder in your garage, or wherever you do this operation. For me, I was able to simply slide the grip in place by 'inching' it up on the bar. It was easy; even after I realized that I had to twist it a little to get the aesthetics right and had to do it again. (air compressor or hair spray)
  • OK, to the throttle. Placing this on the bars should be easy. Positioning is another matter. Make sure that you put on the bar end to make sure that the throttle is the correct distance from the end of the bar and it has enough clearance to keep the throttle grip from rubbing the bar end (I placed the bar end on the bar for every measurement). Refer to your photos for proper positioning or just lightly tighten the bolts (5mm hex) and move the throttle around until you find the proper and comfortable place for it. I used the photos and the tighten, twist, loosen, move, tighten, twist, etc. method as well until I had it set up right. Once the position is proper, you must now prepare to drill.
  • The throttle has a positioning pin in its bottom piece. Once you have it in a position that you are comfortable with (and be sure of this; also make sure to leave enough room for the bar end), hold the top piece in place very carefully and use the Sharpie (or Liquid Paper) and mark the positioning pin tip with some ink from the marker. Carefully close the throttle piece until the pin makes contact with the bars. Once it is there, use the Sharpie once more to go 'around' the pin to make an 'outside line' around it to better help you when drilling the hole. (Sharpie or Liquid Paper)
  • Now you can remove the throttle assembly. You should have a good mark on the bars that allows you to see where you should drill. Use your drill and make a hole. The Magura bars are textured, so holding the bit in place is easier than it looks. Push through until you know that you have gone through the very thick bar and into the center (in case there is someone not too bright reading this, you only need to go through one side of the handlebar). I used a smaller bit than the actual size of the retaining pin and then 'twisted' the drill itself around little by little until I had a tight fit for the retaining pin. (cordless drill, 5/32" or 3/16" bit)
  • Place the throttle assembly back onto the bars and screw everything back together. If it fits well and the position is good, you are done with this one - time to move on. If not, repeat the previous three steps...(5mm hex)
  • Now to move on to the next hole that needs to be drilled. The instrument control set on the clutch-side also has a retaining pin. It is the same size as the one on the throttle, so you can use the same basic tools. Also, the same procedure can be used here that was used to place the throttle, but it is slightly easier because you do not have to slide the throttle assembly on and off of the bars while checking and re-checking the proper location of the retaining pin hole. So, just follow the same procedure and drill the hole. (cordless drill, 5/32" or 3/16" bit)
  • Once the hole is finished, screw these controls in place. Test out the positioning and ensure that it is all in the correct location. If so, you can now move on to the easier (maybe) steps. (5mm hex and Phillips-head screwdriver)
  • The 'installation' of the right\brake lever and left\clutch lever mirror mount units can be rather simple if you choose not to use the retaining pins. I did not use them because the texture of the Magura bars holds them in place perfectly. If you wish to use the pins, follow similar procedures to the throttle and instrument control set for drilling and you will need to get the pins themselves - either make or buy them or try to remove them from the stock bars. Put these on when you are ready and tighten them in place. (5mm hex)
  • **With the stock mirrors you may notice that they are hard to adjust so that they actually work. There are a few options for this, though. One is to get 'bar-end' mirrors such as the ones by CRG. Also, you could pick up some other aftermarket mirrors that will fit in place of the stock ones; Rizoma makes some nice replacements. Or, you could simply do the 'cheap and quick' fix; this is what I did and it works great (for now as I am looking to replace my stock set with some Rizomas). For this change, simply cut out some circular rubber pieces, notch them to fit the notches on the stock mount and place them between the mirror and the mount. Position and tighten the mirrors down - but not too tight - and they should stay in place and work like the original setup or better.
  • Place the bar ends on the bars and torque them in place. (5mm hex)
  • Return the 'bands' holding the cables to the handlebars and position them properly.
  • Properly torque down the four screws in the handlebar u-bolt (clamp) and you are done! (6mm hex)

Testing (most of which should be done when working on the bars above)

  • Take a ride with the new bars and experience the difference.
  • If adjustments need to be made, walk through the specific procedure above and make the change.


The process above is long and detailed, but the process is much shorter than it seems. It took me one evening to complete the switch and it was worth it! I love the new bars and it seems odd to sit on a Brutale without the new setup. So, if you want to do it, take the leap. You can always put the stock bars back on in less than 1/4 of the time it took to put the Magura bars on the bike - none of the stock controls are changed or modified for this process.

I also had some photos to put in here, but I believe that the post is long enough as it is. If you want some photos, please contact me ( and I will send some out - they are not that spectacular but it is possible to see the difference between stock and Magura.

Have Fun!

Thursday, June 08, 2006

Eprom Exhaust & Chip Cross Reference Hit List

Bike Model Frame Number Manifold Type End Can Type Eprom Number

F4 750 S 000001 to 004145 SPR RG3 F4 BB RG4

F4 750 S 000001 to 004145 Standard RG3 A004 RG3

F4 750 S 004146 to 006728 SPR RG3 DNX RG3

F4 750 S 004146 to 006728 Standard RG3 DNY RG3

F4 750 S 004146 to 006728 Senna/SPR RG3 CTX RG3
(13,900 RPM Senna)

F 750 S after 006729 SPR RG3 F4 SPR RG3

F 750 SPR any SPR frame # SPR RG3 F4 SPR RG3

F4 1000 S 000001 to 004145 Standard RG3 F5A23RG24

F4 1000 Ago 000001 to 004145 Standard RG3 F5A23RG24
(with SPP 0003015 or 0003016 central manififold)

Brutale 750 000001 to 002356 Racing SPP003006 Standard BRE1TSPA

Brutale 750 002357 Racing SPP003006 Standard BRE2TSPA

Brutale 750 000001 to 002356 Racing SPP003006 Racing SPP003014 Unknown

Brutale 750 002357- Racing SPP003006 Racing SPP003014 Unknown

Monday, May 08, 2006

Ferrari link to MV Agusta F4 development

In the early development days of what we know now as the MV Agusta F4 motor, Ferrari was heavily involved in it's design. The motor they were working on was basically four cylinders taken from the 1990-1992 era Ferrari formula one car motor. This car was not very successful, Alain Prost called it a garbage truck (and was then quickly fired for the remark), so it didn't take long for the engineers at Cagiva to change the design looking for horsepower.

This early engine featured five radial valves per cylinder, the intake tract in front of the motor and the exhaust exiting the rear. Andrea Goggi had come from Ferrari some years earlier and worked primarily on Cagiva's V4 500cc GP bike and also served as Eddie Lawson's chief race engineer. Goggi became the primary engine designer of the F4 powertrain. After a major redesign, the engineers at Cagiva reversed the intake/exhaust set-up to the conventional design presently used. They also reduced the amount of valves from five to four per cylinder, but retained the radial valve set-up because of the broad spread of power they help create.

Early prototypes of the motor were mounted in a modified Cagiva 500cc GP bike. The original idea was to market the bike as a Ferrari built by Cagiva. When most of the Ferrari design was thrown out, they decided to market it as a Cagiva. When the Castiglioni's aquired the rights to manufacture motorcycles with the name MV Agusta in the early to mid 90's, it became obvious that a new MV Agusta four cylinder was on the horizon.

Victor M. Castañeda Jr.
Buckeye, AZ USA
2004 MV Agusta Brutale

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

History of MV Agusta - link

-photos courtesy

See the excellent factory coverage here:

Frame Sliders and other protection

The subject of frame sliders is a common one and something that requires special consideration.

The mounting method from the frame to the engine's head utilizes a bolt threaded directly into the Alu of the powerplant. This is a popular bolt to utilize by aftermarket slider companies.

We were warned early on by engine designer Andrea Goggi that significant damage can be done if frame sliders are improperly mounted using this same bolt.

-- insert damaged head thread photo here --

There are many popular offerings but few mount the sliders correctly. One notable and highly suggested application is the one used by Jorg Teuchert in the German IDM Superbike Championship. Found here from Performance Parts (also speaks English):

You can see above that we have the bolts which mount the frame to the Alu head. These bolts are hollow and threaded to allow the safe mounting of the slider mount to the BOLT rather than the engine head directly. Very important point.

Other sliders which can be considered safe are those which are press-fit into the frame hole, some of which stay behind the fairing and serve to protect the frame from damage rather than cosmetics.

Sliders which mount at the frame plates (R&G Lower Sliders), front/rear axles and bar-ends should be considered safe.

You can find sliders on offer from the parts suppliers in this FAQ link:


Thursday, March 09, 2006

Model differences; 750 cc Senna, 2002 EVO2, 2003+ EVO3, SPR

Let me paste the words of Andrea Goggi outlining EXACTLY the differences between the Senna, EVO2 and EVO 3. Please find an easy reference summary at the bottom.

For background, let me first post the question that generated the response from Andrea Goggi at MV:

Here are the contents of msg 13573 from someone asking the initial question on yahoogroups:

My guess is the factory was not able to complete their work on the SPR motor for the 2002 model year and ended up just making some simple modifications to the already improved Evo2 engine. Result…the F4 Senna. More specifically, I believe MV took the redesigned Evo2 motor (which included [for all versions] new Malhe forged pistons, a Malhe cylinder block, a lighter crankshaft, a redesigned combustion chamber, different exhaust valves and valve springs, jets for cooling the underside of the pistons, a modified clutch hub, and a fix for the self-removing oil filter) and made a few more changes to distinguish the Senna from both the "vapor"-SPR and the cooking version. When the dust settles on this issue, I think we'll find the Senna had the following engine improvements:

1) slightly different cams (not F4S, not SPR); **FALSE
2) a different fuel injection control unit (possibly off the SPR); **FALSE
3) a different gear box; (ratios) **TRUE
4) three rear sprocket options; **TRUE
5) the SPR exhaust manifold; and **TRUE + RG3 included
6) two new e-proms unique to the Senna and matched to the Senna's cams and SPR headers (one for the stock silences and one for the included RG3 silences). **TRUE

I believe the Senna also has a different alternator and a sturdier clutch disc material to provide a stronger platform for the higher revs (13,900 rpm) allowed with the RG3 chip. ===============================

And here is Goggi's response to the questions raised:

Basically almost everything written in msg. 13573 is somewhat right, but You need to learn some history more.
In 2000 R&D was already working on the upgrade of F4 S engine, and on SPR engine; at that time they were different projects, with different engine specs. Then, due to all the production retards caused by our financial troubles it was decided to make F4S same as the SPR of that time, calling it EV 02. This is shortly the story of F4 EV02. As a consequence the SPR evolution project began again starting from EV02. Differences between first series of engine and EV02 are quite precisely listed in msg. 13573 (pistons, valves, crancksshaft, etc. etc.), so I don't repeat them.
Senna engine is very similar to EV02 engine; differences are gearbox, clutch disks, Eprom (basically rev limiter from 13300 to 13900), and a special care in selecting production heads (better porting casting) in order to obtain a more restricted production tolerance in engine performance.
SPR engine (which is finally going in production right now for the first time), as a result of a further developement step, has many parts new and different than EV02, i.e. increased compression ratio, both in-ex ports, combustion chamber, 100% hand polished inlet ports, cam profiles, tappets, springs, pistons, trumpets, other than same clutch and close ratio gearbox as Senna.
F4 EV03 engine is same as EV02, only with painted pick-up, clutch and sproket covers (same color as Brutale).

I'm sorry to hear about troubles in getting the right informations, but in this moment of re-start of all our activities communication is for sure suffering; It will get better because as we always did we are working hard to make it happen. Anyway the informations about differences between basic engine and EV02/Senna have been communicated to press in a precise way, so it is strange that so many doubts still exist. I hope everything is more clear now. Ciao - AG =============================

EVO3 talking point from the engine designer: "F4 EV03 engine is same as EV02, only with painted pick-up, clutch and sproket covers (same color as Brutale)."

Senna talking points: "Senna engine is very similar to EV02 engine; differences are gearbox, clutch disks, Eprom (basically rev limiter from 13300 to 13900), and a special care in selecting production heads (better porting casting) in order to obtain a more restricted production tolerance in engine performance."

SPR talking points: "SPR engine (which is finally going in production right now for the first time), as a result of a further developement step, has many parts new and different than EV02, i.e. increased compression ratio, both in-ex ports, combustion chamber, 100% hand polished inlet ports, cam profiles, tappets, springs, pistons, trumpets, other than same clutch and close ratio gearbox as Senna."

Wednesday, March 08, 2006

Throttle spring tension

A common and longstanding complaint by owners is the force required to turn the throttle and then maintain it at a given throttle input. There is a simple and reversible way to lighten the spring tension on the throttle return.

The Throttle body bank has two throttle return springs, one between cylinders 2/3 and another outboard of cylinder 1 on the bike's left side.

Spring between 2/3:

-courtesy Brad

The spring shown above, between 2/3, will remain in place for throttle return.

We will be removing the tension from the throttle return spring just below the airbox on the bike's left side.

-courtesy James

As you can see above, the spring has been removed from tension. The easiest way to do this is pull the long straight end toward you and away from it's stop block. It is fine to leave it free on the throttle body as shown above - removal would be extremely difficult and unnecessary.

Relish in your newfound ease to highside into oblivion :P


Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Tuning 3) Eprom replacement

contributed by Brad with Moto-One Australia
MV Dealership, Workshop and Custom Eprom tuner
Moto One
1432 Dandenong Rd. Oakleigh
Victoria Australia LMCT 7644
Ph: (03) 9568 0100

Please contact Moto-One directly if you are interested in their custom Eprom tuning for MV! Their information can be found here:

Before custom or aftermarket eprom replacement you need to set up your TPS and afterwards you need to adjust your idle, CO and Throttle Body Balance as follows:

Step 1) TPS setup found here:

Step 2) Replace Eprom described below

Step 3) Idle, Base Co and Throttle Body Balance setup

Swapping an Eprom. The 1.6M ECU has a rubber access plug that is always hidden under a “do not remove” sticker of some sort. Either remove the whole sticker or just use a sharp knife/blade to cut around the plug and gently pry it out with a little screwdriver. Once removed you can see the eprom directly under the access hole.

Being very careful remove the grey blobs of silicone (the greatest goop ever) from either end of the eprom and its little white plastic clip on cover. It’s common to lose them inside the ECU case – just hold it upside down and roll them out as required. Then using a small blade and extreme care (usually the amount of care is inversely proportional to the number of times you’ve done it) pry the tangs of the white plastic clip on cover sideways out from under the eprom socket base and remove the white cover. You might have to go fishing for this too.

This exposes the eprom. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom remove it as well. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do (because I was never told to and Duane at FIM/Ultimap taught me everything I know in this area) and have never had a problem. I’m sure that’ll upset some. If it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you.

You’ll also notice that the socket that the eprom sits on and the pins go into has a notch at one end. The eprom also has a notch, usually hidden under the grey goop. This is the locating notch, and the new eprom needs to be fitted with its notch at the same end.

At this point, if you’re fitting one of our MVB01 eproms or any other sort of FIM/Ultimap eprom (excepting Megazone), you’ll notice the original eprom is only a single grey piece, whereas the Ultimap eprom is a similar grey piece fitted to a green circuit board. This green circuit board is a security device manufactured by Ultimap. Removing the eprom from this will do you no good at all, as it won’t work. For obvious reasons it also stops you copying the eprom and selling it on yourself too. So, you install the complete eprom and green board assembly as shown below.

-blogged JamesC

Tuning 2) Idle, Base CO and Throttle Body Balance

-contributed by Brad with Moto-One Australia
MV Dealership, Workshop and Custom Eprom tuner
Moto One
1432 Dandenong Rd. Oakleigh
Victoria Australia LMCT 7644
Ph: (03) 9568 0100

Please contact Moto-One directly if you are interested in their custom Eprom tuning for MV! Their information can be found here:

-additional notes JamesC in Ital.

Step 1) of this process is setting up the TPS, found here:

Step 2) after the TPS (and optional eprom replacement) is this current document below.

*Optional step 3) of this process would be eprom replacement for tuning found here:

The idle trimmer is a little metal square just next to the eprom with a plastic rotating pot inside. This adjusts the idle mixture, working the same as the electronic idle trimmers in the 1.5M and 5.9M ECU. It adds or subtracts a given pulse width from the map fuel number across the whole map, therefore having a much greater percentage effect at small pulse widths.

This trimmer is adjusted by rotating it between the ends of its travel. The total travel is 270 degrees (3/4 of a full turn) as shown in the next photo so if you manage to make it go all the way round you’ve wrecked it and it’s time for a new ECU. Be very gentle! As with a mixture screw, clockwise is lean, anti clockwise is rich. The mixture screw is also very sensitive so it doesn't take much to effect a large change of CO %. The mid point, where the trimmer slot points directly at the eprom socket, is nominally zero. Best to use a non metallic screwdriver when adjusting this especially when you have the engine running and the ECU circuit board is live. You don’t want to be shorting anything out.
In the photo you can see the trimmer is set at about 60 degrees lean (which looks identical to 120 degrees rich).

As a starting point on the Brutale I recommend setting the trimmer around 35 to 45 degrees lean (clockwise from the mid point). This is the setting used when developing the Moto-One Brutale eprom and has proved to be consistant thus far. In fact, if this doesn’t give the right idle mixture CO% setting for your bike it’s worth rechecking your TPS setting or having a look at the fuel filter, that sort of thing. Other bikes may start at a different baseline position. Best to measure with your exhaust gas analyzer to be sure which direction you need to go. Below shows an '02 F4 750 which was zeroed exactly perpendicular to the eprom.

-JamesC , click to enlarge

To check the idle mixture CO% we need to fit probes to the two take off bungs in the LH and RH collectors of a brutale.

The Brutale is unique amongst the MV for having two take off points – the F4 models have only one as illustrated below.

-JamesC, factory manual

The issue with the Brutale is that while the exhausts are paired 1-2 and 3-4, the main fuel map and offset fuel map are paired 1-4 and 2-3. This means that checking in each header still gives a combined reading, not a dedicated ‘main’ and ‘offset’. It is still well worth doing, however, as they will vary when the air bleeds are set for balanced vacuum. The F4 models only having one sample port obviously provide only a 'main' reading.

At this point it’s just the usual balance and idle mixture setting. Initially wind all the air bleeds in fully – the air bleeds are the little brass screws at the fronts of the throttle bodies.

Now set the balance between the two butterfly pairs using the central balance screw.

The vacuum readings from cylinders 2 and 3 are the ones I use for this – I ignore cylinders 1 and 4 at this point. Usually I balance this at idle and find it stays fairly consistant when the throttle is opened to raise the RPM. Now this may seem easier said than done, but we use little right angled screwdrivers that do the trick amazingly well – see the photo below. Well worth buying if you do a few MV as we do. Access to the central balance screw is easiest form the LH side. If you don’t have one of them, getting someone to hold the tank up provides access.

Once you have this done wind the air bleeds out around half to three quarters of a turn (one on F4 750, one and a half or so on a F4 1000), balancing the settings using the vacuum readings of all 4 cylinders. This range should give the correct idle speed. There is no need for the air bleeds to all be at the same turns out – it would surprise me if they were. The vacuum is what matters here.

The factory specifies the following air bleed/bypass screw ranges as ideals:

F4 Oro: 1/2 turn to 1 turn air bypass opening. Idle 1250 +/- 50 RPM. CO 4 +/- .5%
F4 750 2000/01: 1/2 turn to 1 turn air bypass opening. Idle 1250 +/- 50 RPM. CO 4 +/- .5%
F4 750 Senna/2002/2003/2004/SPR/SR: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 air bypass opening. Idle 1150 +/- 50 RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%
Brutale 750 2003/2004/2005: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 air bypass opening. Idle 1150 +/- 50 RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%
Brutale 910: 1 to 3.5 turns air bypass opening. Idle 1200 +/- 50RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%

Because of the unique EBS system on the MV 1000 the procedure is somewhat different for that model (1000S, Ago and Tamburini). The factory specifies that you first adjust Cylinder #2 starting at 1.5 turns and try to stay as close as possible to that position while balancing the other three cylinders. The range for cylinder #2 is 1 - 2.5 turns. The range for cylinders 1,3,4 is 1 - 3.5 turns. End idle result should be 1200 RPM +/- 50.

Warm the bike up before setting the idle mixture. Most manufacturers specify engine temp of at least 65 degrees must be reached before setting idle mixture, but MV specify the idle speed and mixture be set with the radiator thermo fans running. The fans usually come on around 103 degrees C/215F, and luckily they warm up pretty quickly.

Now hook up your gas analyser to the take off from either collector on a Brutale or your single collector on F4. On the Brutale, once you have a stable reading on one hook into the other collector. We’re looking for around 3.5% CO as an idle mixture – certainly between 3 and 4%. You can use the idle trimmer to set the mixture in this range, but as stated above it should remain in the range of 35 to 45 degrees lean. For the Brutale, if the readings between each collector take off vary by more than 0.5% or so use the air bleeds of each cylinder pair to balance the mixture. This results in the vacuum balance being off, but don’t worry about that.

Winding the air bleeds in richens the mixture, winding them out leans the mixture. Make the necessary adjustments to either or both cylinder pairs as required to keep the idle speed and mixture correct– you will end up with the vacuum of cylinders 1 -2 balanced, and the vacuum of cylinders 3 – 4 balanced, and most likely a variation between the two pairs. This variation is not important (within reason). The air bleed position/idle speed/idle mixture interaction can be a bit of a chasing game at times, but you get used to it.

For a chart correlating the CO% to a/f ratios refer here:

The ECU position on the Brutale makes it a real pain to get to, but it’s worth keeping the ECU under the front of the tank and having the ambient air temp and pressure sensor connected. Hanging the ECU out the side with this sensor disconnected will give a varied reading based on the assumed values for ambient air temp and pressure the ECU will use when it’s not receiving input from the sensor. Using the idle trimmer setting mentioned above should ensure there’s little need for a second helper holding the front of the tank up so you can get inside the ECU.

The ECU position on an F4 allows for easy access to the trim POT. Key in off position, flip the ECU upside down and rebolt it to one of the ECU mounts on the subframe. Remember to keep the ground strap in contact with the ECU when securing it for the CO trim work described above.


At this point you have reset the TPS baseline, set the idle stop using either TPS voltage or the ECU degree reading, set the balance, idle speed and mixture. This is all pretty simple stuff – the TPS baseline setting is something we do at first service, the balance, idle speed and mixture something we do every service.

-blogged/edited JamesC

Tuning 1) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) setup

-contributed by Brad with Moto-One Australia
MV Dealership, Workshop and Custom Eprom tuner
Moto One
1432 Dandenong Rd. Oakleigh Victoria Australia LMCT 7644
Ph: (03) 9568 0100

Please contact Moto-One directly if you are interested in their custom Eprom tuning for MV! Their information can be found here:

*1000R/Senna1000 Owners see note about your 5Sm ECU TPS setup at the bottom of this document

*Please note, this procedure is not specified by the factory - the factory specifies that the TPS (and any other related mechanism with yellow paint over the screw) should not "need" adjustment. I will include the factory procedure at bottom for reference.

This is a 2 part process for regular maintenance or *3 if you are also swapping the Eprom to tune:

- 1)TPS setup - this current document

-*2)Custom/Aftermarket Eprom swap - found here:

-3) Idle, CO and Throttle Body Balance - found here:

Weber Marelli Throttle Position Sensor Setting Notes and Procedures - with photos for MV - Written 11/05

When we service any bike with a Weber Marelli EFI system we have a set procedure to make sure it’s working as intended. Which may vary from working as well as it can (Moto Guzzi models in particular), but it’s the baseline setup that theoretically gets everything where it was when the mapping was created. First step in this is TPS setup. This is something that I learnt when I first started working at Moto and it hasn’t changed since. However, not all manufacturers detail it, and in the case of MV they seem to totally ignore it. Which is up to them, and really doesn’t worry me at all.

The Throttle Position Sensor has one job – it tells the ECU how far open the throttle butterfly is. Simple enough you would think. On the Weber Marelli systems the TPS is non linear (excepting Ducati 749, 800, 999 and 1000 models, which are linear - the ’05 620 is also linear TPS I believe). What this means is that the output varies in its sensitivity – at low throttle openings you get a higher voltage change per degree of throttle opening than you do at high throttle openings. This is just the way they do it. What this means is that for the ECU to read the output correctly there needs to be a baseline setting to reference the TPS and throttle butterfly so they’re both starting at the same point. Otherwise the sensitivity is off and you get variations not only based on incorrect base line, but also on the transient voltage/degree relationship.

We also do baseline setting procedures for BMW models (the zero = zero) and for the Ducati models with the linear TPS. Keep in mind both these procedures are not actually ‘official’, but they do work. These are based on correcting the baseline reference between the TPS and throttle butterfly – ie, when the throttle is fully shut the ECU reads it as fully shut, not open a bit or shut more than fully (not a physical, but an electronic thing). However, in the case of the Ducati models the output voltage from the TPS is not relevant, as you carry out an electronic procedure using the diagnostic software that tells the ECU that the voltage it is seeing corresponds to a certain throttle angle.

On the BMW models the voltage coming out is relevant, and is used to set the idle throttle angle. However, the BMW TPS is linear, using two variable resistor tracks to give sensitivity (which is why it has 4 wires). One track reaches max output voltage at about 25% throttle, the other at WOT.

The important point here is that the TPS setting needs to be done using a repeatable procedure that ensures they’re all the same. Once they’re all the same it makes everything that follows much more consistant. So what we’re after here is consistency – and the Weber Marelli non linear TPS system is the one that suffers from inconsistency the most.

At this point it’s worth mentioning that many see TPS position as a tuning variable. It’s not, it’s just a basic sensor with an expected system input, but for someone like me with access to lots of tuning equipment that’s easy to say. If you want to play with your TPS using your own method go for it, it’s your bike after all and not my problem.

All the procedures vary, but at their basis they all have some sort of ‘throttle fully shut’ setting. With the Weber Marelli non linear system, when the throttle is fully shut the TPS needs to be producing a voltage of 150mV. To check this voltage you need to get the throttle fully shut and hook into the TPS circuit with the ignition on (or use the Mathesis test function and separate lead). Once you’ve done that you then wind the idle stop up to give the nominal idle voltage. Ideally you then hook into the diagnostic connector and set the idle stop using a degree value as specified for that model. In this case we’ll work with the MV Brutale and carry out a setup specifically for our MVB01 Brutale eprom, although all the MV models share the same throttle body and TPS layout. The concept transfers directly to all the Ducati and Moto Guzzi models as well.

1/ First up, remove the tank, airbox, etc to allow access to the throttle bodies. The locations of required parts are shown. This procedure is usually carried out with all bits cold. A hot engine or throttle body will give a slightly different result. Which is more correct – cold or hot - I’m not sure, but convention is cold, and sticking to convention gives us repeatability.

click on photos to enlarge

2/ Slacken throttle opening cable (or remove the bracket on the throttle bodies) and dig out the yellow paint covering the idle stop screw at the front of the throttle bodies. There is another screw at the rear of the throttle bodies that sits on the end of this screw (see picture with 3/ below) – don’t bother winding it out as it often doesn’t wind out enough to allow the throttle to fully close. You need a 2.5mm hex key for this. Wind the screw out until there is 3 or 4 mm clearance.

3/ Wind the balance screw 1 to 2 turns clockwise, remembering how much and where it was originally. This opens the LH throttle pair more than the RH, ensuring the RH throttle pair can shut completely without interference from the LH.

4/ Now you should be able to open the throttles and let them snap shut, or push down gently on the throttle blades themselves so they shut fully and lightly jam. This light jamming lets you know there’s nothing holding the throttle open.

5/ Move on to the TPS, located at the RH end of the throttle bodies. This is the later style small, round TPS on the MV that is also fitted to most Moto Guzzi after ’96, the Ducati 2V models from ST2 on and Ducati 748R, 996R and 998 models. All the previous models use the larger, square TPS, the very early ones (851, Daytona) of which were red. You can see the red painted screws, which we do after setting the TPS so we know for future reference that it has been done. As delivered these screws are covered in the same yellow paint that covered the idle stop screw. Dig out the yellow goop to ensure you get a good fit of the tool. On these later bikes they are a torx20 head, on early bikes usually a 7mm hex. The adjustment slots are visible behind the screws. There is a very large range of adjustment, why I’m not really sure.

So now we need to measure the voltage coming out of the TPS and then move it as required to give the 150mV reading. There’s a few ways you can get into the TPS signal to check the voltage. We use an auxiliary function on the Mathesis tester and a special cable, but not many have that luxury.

First is back probing the TPS itself. You need to take the voltage across the two outer wires for the MV. But you also need to make sure you don’t let the two probes touch or earth out on anything as this may give the ECU a voltage it doesn’t like. So be careful. Remember the ignition is turned on for this too, and you can see the display on the digital multimeter of 308mV. If you’re not sure if you have the right wires or not – the reading should be around 100 to 150mV with the throttle fully shut (as delivered) and it should rise to 4.85 or so Volts at WOT.

Second, and maybe somewhat easier when access is an issue, is reading the voltage at the ECU connector. This is relatively easy for P7, P8 and 1.6M ECU. First you disconnect the big black multipin connector from the ECU, levering the lock tab up with a small screwdriver. At this point always remember that when you turn the ignition off you need to wait at least 15 seconds before disconnecting the ECU.

Then cut the zip tie holding the wiring boot on and pull the boot back exposing the end of the connector.

Remove the small Phillips head screw at the other end of the connector.

Now slide the outer cover off. When this cover comes off the two plates that lock each little connector into the multipin connector can come out, although I’ve never actually seen the little connectors come out. You can also see in this photo the numbers denoting each pin number for the ECU.

Now you can easily connect a multimeter into the backs of the terminals. In this case we want pins 16 (green with white stripe) and 30 (white with green stripe). For the older Ducati and Guzzi P7 and P8 ECU systems you need pins 11 and 17. Reconnect the multipin connector to the ECU, pushing it home firmly. Turn the ignition on and read the voltage.

Once you’ve carried out the required TPS readings you reassemble the connector in the reverse and use a new zip tie to hold the rubber boot on. While this may seem a bit daunting the first time for some it’s not at all hard and I’ve never seen wires come out of a multipin connector. Not saying it couldn’t happen, and if it does don’t tell me it’s my fault.

As delivered, with the throttle fully shut, we expect the voltage to be from 150mV down to maybe 90mV. Occasionally it’s lower, and even more occasionally it’s higher than 150mV.

What you need to do now is loosen the two screws and rotate the TPS to give 150mV with the throttle fully shut. This is the baseline setting. Once you have a repeatable 150mV every time you open the throttle and let it snap shut (you should be able to get between 147 and 152 very easily) tighten the TPS screws and don’t touch them again. The TPS is now set.

6/ Wind the idle stop screw back in to give the idle setting. This setting varies for most models, and the relationship between this setting and what the ECU reads also varies. However, without the diagnostic equipment to read the degree setting (you need the Mathesis, Technoresearch or FIM software/tools to do this) the closest you can get is a mV setting. Be aware that a FIM Megazone or Ultimap eprom in a P7, P8 or 1.6M ECU will not talk to the Mathesis or Technoresearch software.

The table below gives a range of mV versus degrees – which oddly enough seems rather linear.

click to enlarge

For the MV Brutale 750 models the idle setting is 1.5 to 1.7 degrees – 315 to 335mV. I usually aim for 1.6 degrees.

For the MV Brutale 910 models the idle setting is 1.9 to 2.5 degrees - 355 to 413mV.

For the MV F4 year 2000 and 2001 the idle setting is 1.5 to 1.7 degrees – 315 to 335mV. I usually aim for 1.6 degrees.

For the MV F4 Senna, year 2002, 2003, 2004, SPR, SR the idle setting is 1.7 to 1.9 degrees - 335-355mV.

For the MV 1000 the idle setting is 2.1 to 2.3 degrees - 374 to 393mV.

Once you have the idle stop set as desired you don’t touch the idle stop again.

7/ Wind the balance screw (see step 1 and 3) anticlockwise (counter clockwise for our American friends) to return it to its original position.

You are not finished, move on to the following step which is correct for your situation.

To complete regular maintenance go to step 2):

To swap Eprom as part of tuning go to step 3):

-Additional notes by MikeT, JamesC, yahoogroups
-blogged and edited: JamesC

Monday, November 28, 2005

Tuning 4) F4 1000; Idle, throttle, blipping issues

submitted by MikeT

If anyone is wondering about why their MV1000 revs differently/sluggish when put in gear, I suspect that MV have done this by retarding the ignition timing, and progressivly advancing it again, so all's back to std by about 3000 rpm. The "sluggish" part is activated by the neutral switch to make the bike tractable in the very low rpm's, don't forget all the jap multi cylinder 1000's have a twin throttle system were you open one set and the engine vacuum/ECU opens the second set, MV don't have the room to do that due to the compact nature of the airbox etc. You could try"cutting" the neutral light input to the ECU which may get rid of the sluggish under 3000rpm bit, I must admit if you take off with some "gusto" and it goes over 3000rpm whilst also slipping the clutch it does rear it's head up!.

The other "no blipping" stuff that happens on the 1000 your going to need to adjust to, a power commander helps but it's still there, the bike basically monitors how fast it's engine is slowing down and then starts the "EBS" system, this system supplies air and fuel to cylinder two which opposes the braking torque, BUT it also supplies fuel to cylinder three, which doesn't want any! to get around this the "EBS" control unit removes the 12v supply to number three injector ( injectors always have 12v on them, the ECU shorts them to ground to "fire" them, and this MV ECU grounds them in pairs (1&4 2&3) hence the need to remove the 12v from injector three to stop it flooding the cylinder)

I am pretty certain when decelerating the "EBS" works to around the 5000 rpm mark (maybe 4700rpm) it then shuts all fuel off to 3000 rpm while/if still decelerating where you may notice a slight "kick" as some fuel is re-introduced, the "no blipping" on downchanges only happens in this 3000-4700 rev band when correctly fuelled with a power commander, and maybe less than that 3500-4500? I'm not too sure.You can improve it by blipping slower within these points to give the injection time to revert back to "acceleration" mode. It's not a perfect system which is why the new Senna has a different ECU , it's different, not wrong, once you adjust to it the corner entry lack of engine braking is amazing when the bikes "on song" in the 7000ish rpm's, it does work pretty good when you use the bike hard, even sounds good! more like a three cylinder when on the over-run.
Regards, Mike

Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Paint Codes

F4 750 Red/Silver:

Fairings: PPG paint codes
PPG 954642 Red
PPG 954643 Silver

or NEXA paint codes
WVD8B Silver

Wheels: PPG 954644 2000-2002 Anthracite
PPG Alu grey Sebino 35204189 & Clear Sebino 35209052 2003- Silver
PPG 954663 Gold Magnesium for Oro

Frame: PPG 954644

F4 750 Silver (Diamante):

Farings: PPG 950042 Silver OR updated from PPG 0042 in UK shops
Wheels: PPG 954644 2000-2002 Anthracite
Frame: PPG 954644

F4 750 Senna:

Fairings: PPG*0038 Metalic Black & PPG*0039 Metallic Grey
Wheels: Pulverlac 1111950506 Red & Sebino 35209052 transparent/clearcoat
Frame: Palinal 255I0005 & Palinal 211XH578

F4 750 SPR:

Fairings: PPG T0036/1 + PPG T0036/2
Wheels: Alu grey Sebino 35204189 & Clear Sebino 35209052
Frame: PPG ?

F4 1000 Red/Silver:
Fairings: F4 AGO Red Painting (Code PPG ITP 473101)
F4 AGO Silver Painting (Code Palinal 928XV025)
Wheels: Alu grey Sebino 35204189 & Clear Sebino 35209052
Frame: MV Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey Painting (Code Palinal 211XH893)
Misc: Mirror supports: Metal Bronze Painting (Code Palinal 211E144)
Electrical Covers: Black Painting - CRC 1951-6 (Code Palinal 211E357)

F4 1000 Ago:
Fairings: F4 AGO Red Painting (Code PPG ITP 473101)
F4 AGO Silver Painting (Code Palinal 928XV025)
Wheels: Custom
Frame: F4 AGO Red Painting (Code PPG ITP 473101)
Misc: Mirror supports: Metal Bronze Painting (Code Palinal 211E144)
Electrical Covers: Black Painting - CRC 1951-6 (Code Palinal 211E357)

F4 1000 Blue/Silver:
Fairings: CRC Metal Blue (Code Palinal 928XV035)
F4 AGO Silver Painting (Code Palinal 928XV025)
Wheels: Alu grey Sebino 35204189 & Clear Sebino 35209052
MV Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey Painting (Code Palinal 211XH893)
Misc: Mirror supports: Metal Bronze Painting (Code Palinal 211E144)
Electrical Covers: Black Painting - CRC 1951-6 (Code Palinal 211E357)

F4 1000 Tamburini:
Fairings: F4 AGO Red Painting (Code PPG ITP 473101)
CRC Intense Black Painting (Code Palinal 929R486)
*CRC Gloss Transparent Painting (Code PPG 228.880) *-only on side fairings,
undercowl & front mudguard
Wheels: Custom/Marchesini Gold
Frame: MV Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey Painting (Code Palinal 211XH893)
Swingarm, Frameplates: F4 AGO Metal Matt Grey Painting (Code Palinal 211.A704)
Misc: Mirror supports: Metal Bronze Painting (Code Palinal 211E144)

Brutale S:

Tank, Painted Tail Colour combination A CRC Red : Palinal 926XH348D
Colour combination B Metal Matt Black : Palinal 925XH982
Color combination C: F4 AGO Silver (Code Palinal 928XV025) +
CRC B4 Red (Code Palinal 926XH348D)
Color combination D: CRC Intense Black Painting
(Code Palinal 929R486)

Tail piece, Air box side fairings, Ignition switch cover, Dashboard cover, Fuel tank , side fairings, mirrors: Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey: Palinal 926XH893 Multicryl

Frame: Color combinations A,B: MV Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey Painting
(Code Palinal 211XH893)
Color combinations C-D: F4 AGO Frame Red Painting (Code Palinal 211XH987)

Rear Sub-Frame, Exhaust Clamp: MV Brutale Metal Anthracite Grey Painting (Code Palinal 211XH893)

Steering base lower triple clamp, swingarm, Frame Plates: Black Anodized

Wheels: Alu grey Sebino 35204189 & Clear Sebino 35209052

Brutale Oro:

Tank, Painted Tail (Colour combination A CRC Red) : Palinal 926XH348D

Tail piece, Air box side fairings, Ignition switch cover, Dashboard cover, Fuel tank , side fairings, mirrors: unpainted carbon fibre

Mirrors: Palinal 926XH893 Multicryl

Frame, Rear Sub-Frame, Exhaust Clamp: Palinal 211XH893

Steering base lower triple clamp, swingarm, Frame Plates:
Brutale Gold Magnesium Painting: Palinal8814338 + Palinal 1211E359

Wheels: Brutale Gold Magnesium Painting: Palinal8814338 + Palina1211E359

Partial source:

special thanks to Richard Sawkins, Jerry Finley/Pirate's Lair


Tuesday, November 22, 2005

Quick Change Sprockets for 520 chain: 750cc Brutale and F4

A popular modification for 750cc models is the addition of an aftermarket quick change sprocket. The Brutale 910 and F4 1000 come with a quick change rear sprocket for a 525 chain. The below kits could be used if performaing a 520 chain conversion on these models. This allows use of aftermarket and widely available sprockets in a variety of sizes.

Fast by Ferracci

35 Tooth through 44 tooth applications

STM Racing Italy

USA Source:

36 through 44 tooth applications

Motorrad Lust

39 through 42 tooth applications


36 through 43 tooth applications

41-41 tooth applications


Cam Chain Tensioner reset or rebuild

submitted by Dan

Re-Setting Cam Chain Tensioner

Here is a view of a new cam chain tensioner disassembled for reference.

photo courtesy JamesC

This a rare condition but never the less happens, the tensioner gets stuck at its maximum position causing the over tensioning of the cam chain not to mention the awful noise the engine emits while the chain slack is forced to rattle at the wrong location.

This may also cause undue wear on the two cam gears and single crank gear that drives this chain. Normal chain and gear replacement interval is 30000km.

photo courtesy JamesC

The above symptom occurred on my F4 and is fairly straightforward to rectify.

The side fairings and belly pan should first be removed followed by the front nose cone, the electrical covers and air tubes. This clears way to loosen the top radiator fixing screw on the left side and allowing the radiator to be released and moved forward giving just enough room to access and dismantle the cam chain tensioner. The cam chain tensioner is located between cylinders two and three by the exhaust manifold.

photo courtesy JamesC

First stage is to undo the centre screw (10mm). Undo it all the way, take care not to let it go it as it is spring loaded and will eventually come out including the spring, a small rod and a washer.
Next undo the two screws (8mm) securing the tensioner body and prise it out of the block by rotating it back and fourths while pulling outwards, it will feel a bit stiff due to the rubber ring washer but eventually come out.

Once the tensioner is out you will clearly see the mechanism, it is designed as a ratchet with teeth and a spring loaded stop so once the arm reaches its optimum position with the help of the long spring, there it stays (now I understand why the complete assembly costs £125).

To reset, release the stop and push the tensioner arm all the way in. That’s it.

The rest is in the re-assembly sequence, first replace the tensioner body back into the block and tighten up top and bottom screws to required torque (8Nm). Then insert the centre assembly spring, rod and not forgetting the washer. Tighten up to the required torque (8Nm).

[From the Factory Workshop Manual]:
""Lock the screw cap by hand till you feel the tensioner extend, then lock it with a 8 Nm torque
Acting this way the chain tensioner is adjusted."

Once assembled, start the engine and let the tensioner find its own setting as the chain slaps around for a few seconds after which all cam chain rattles will disappear and all will sound as it should.
Job done!

edited JamesC